![]() ![]() So the more avenues it has, the easier it will flow. The easier it is for that ground current to get back to the alternator, the better. The alternator is the beginning point, and the end point of the electrical circuit in your vehicle. The more grounding points, the better for current flow. I wouldn't do the block and have all the grounds go to that. Though, thinking about it, if you make sure to put that bar towards the battery side, I think you'd be alright. That kind of acts as a solid distribution block for that side, rendering that side technically not protected by the fuses. If you look closely at the block, one side has a solid "bar" on it. I wouldn't use the same fused distro block for the run from alt to battery, and battery to amps. Depending on how much more you want to throw at it in the future, you might need more, but you can cross that bridge when you get to it. You should definitely be fine running that power. I'm very green when it comes to this so I appreciate all the input. Do I have to to do the chassis to if i choose to run on the frame for ground? Also how would I determine the group of the battery. The only flimsy wire I could find is the ground for the chassis to the battery and frame to motor. Now I have to say the factory power/ground is stout it's way thicker than the 1/0 cca I have now(cheap kit). ![]() My plans are to run the 1/0 power from the alt to a smd dual fuse block then run the battery to the same fuse block within 18 inch from the battery then from there run the run to the amp for power and and for ground I was gonna do the same from the alt then to a 4way distribution block then negative on the battery then to the frame then from the frame to the amp for ground. I'm only running a kicker zx 2500.1 old school with a ds18 15 ext for now until I can get the big boys. Unless your pumping tons of power, then you have to start looking into bigger batteries. If it makes it easier, just replace the batteries with the same group in whatever XS has. Or, you can do both and make it a big 4 upgrade. If your grounding to your chassis, upgrade the factory ground from battery negative to the chassis ground. Then, if you're grounding to the frame, go battery negative to the frame. Don't remove it, just add your ground(s) to it. There should be a stock wire already in place. Then, from your battery negative, to your engine block/ alternator. You might be able to get away with a single run of 1/0, but if it where me, to be on the safe side, I'd run 2 to the battery positive. Those mechman alternators are measured at 1800 RPM. The big 3 consists of upgrading your positive line from your alternator to your battery. You can also wire the negative together and ground it once, or run separate grounds. ![]() Wire the 2 batteries together, positive to positive. I think I have the right alt I'm getting the 320amps. Should I connect the power and ground on the 2 batteries together with the 1/0 or just the main battery would be good? Also any advice on the batteries? Xs power has so many different ones. On my f250 I have 2 batteries so it has me a lil confused on how to do the big 3. I'm in the process of getting the big 3 upgrade, batteries, and alternator done on my f250 superduty with the sky high audio ofc 1/0, xs power batteries, and mechman alt but I need to know how much of a run i will need and to find that out i need to know how to properly do the big 3 and help figuring out what kind of xs batteries I need. ![]()
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